Through all the breakfast fads, pancakes stand resolute, the definitive breakfast dish, something almost everyone loves and all of us should master. They are the indulgent heroes of the breakfast table: eggy, salty and just this side of sweet. There may have been struggles with burned bottoms and raw interiors in your past, but with a well-made batter and some practice with your stove, you can achieve pancake perfection.

Cuts a striking figure in a Johnny Cash-like ensemble of black boots, black jeans, black shirt and black overcoat, but Ravi DeRossi remains enough of an unknown that customers pay no attention to him as he gives a tour of his various bars in the East Village. There are a lot of bars, by the way. Over the course of a decade or so.

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